About Tartu
Tartu is the second-biggest city in Estonia, with 100,000 inhabitants. It is located on the banks of Emajõgi (Mother River) and in the centre lies the beautiful Toomemägi (Dome Hill) with its historical buildings and green scenery. Tartu is considered as the intellectual centre of Estonia, as University of Tartu is the biggest university in Estonia and most prestigious univesity in the Baltic region (belonging to top 1% universities in the world, according to QS World University Rankings 2019) Tartu was chosen as one of the three culture capitals of Europe 2024.
History
Tartu was founded on the banks of Emajõgi (Mother River), as it was an important water trade route. The first permanent settlement on the site of modern Tartu dates to as early as the 5th century AD. By the 7th century, local inhabitants had built a wooden fortification on the east side of Toomemägi (Dome Hill).
During medieval period Tartu (Dorpat) was the capital of the semi-independent Bishopric of Dorpat. The bishop’s fortress was on Toome Hill. Also a cathedral (Dome Church) was built on the hill, the ruins of which can be seen today.
The University of Tartu was founded in 1632, during the Swedish rule. There were numerous breaks in university’s work. First it was a latin university, then German, Russian, 1918-1940 Estonian, and after that until 1989 Soviet.
Traditional Estonian constructions were built from wood. Due to that Tartu was burned to ground several times. After the Great Fire of Tartu in 1775 Tartu was rebuilt while belonging to the Russian Empire. Most of the buildings you can see in the city centre today were built then after the Great Fire in Neo-Classical style, for example the City Hall and University of Tartu main building. During the Russian rule Tartu was called Yuryev.
At the end of Estonian War of Independence following World War I, a peace treaty between the Bolsheviks and Estonia was signed on 2 February 1920 in Tartu (Treaty of Tartu). The treaty meant that Soviet Russia renounced territorial claims to Estonia “for all time”.
The first period of independence lasted 22 years, beginning in 1918. Estonia underwent a number of economic, social, and political reforms necessary to come to terms with its new status as a sovereign state. Importantly, large estate holdings belonging to the Baltic nobility were redistributed among the peasants and especially among volunteers in the Estonian War of Independence. The interwar period was one of great cultural advancement. University of Tartu became the first Estonian language university. Estonian language schools were established, and artistic life of all kinds flourished. Estonia became an important exporter of agricultural goods to Western Europe.
During the Second World War Tartu was heavily damaged by bombing. For example the historical Kivisild (Stone Bridge) located next to the City Hall Square was destroyed. It has now been replaced by Kaarsild (Arc Bridge). Some of the stones from original Stone Bridge are still visible and a replica of Stone Bridge can be found next to the Arc Bridge. As a result of the Nazi-Soviet Pact of 1939, the Soviet Union occupied Estonia and Tartu in 1940.
After the war, Tartu was declared a “closed town” to foreigners, as an air base for bombers was constructed on Raadi Airfield, in the northeast outskirts of the city. It was one of the biggest military air bases in Eastern Europe and housed intercontinental fighters, that carried nuclear bombs. The concrete runway there now houses a large used cars market, and is sometimes used for automotive racing, and big open air concerts. On one end of an older strip of the runway, the new building of Estonian National Museum was built.
Culture
As all of Estonia, Tartu has seen many rulers throughout the history – Russians, Germans, Swedes, and several rounds back and forth… Despite the grim history we are proud to have maintained our national identity, language and culture! Estonians are considered to be Finno-Ugric, so linguistically more similar to the Finns, rather than the other neighbouring countries.
If you are more interested in Estonian history and culture, you should visit Estonian National Museum (https://www.erm.ee/en). The colossal museum was opened in 2016 and the building itself is worth seeing.
Tartu has the oldest Estonian language theatre Vanemuine, which is also considered as the only 3-genre theatre in Estonia (drama, musicals and ballet).
The main square, the City Hall Square (Raekoja plats), is the heart of the city with its fountain of the kissing students, Mother River on one end and Dome hill behind the city hall. The square is surrounded by numerous restaurants and bars. Rüütli street, starting from the square, is known for its busy nightlife.
Activities in Tartu can be checked on Tartu events website: https://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/en
Weather
Weather in Estonia is highly unpredictable, with temperatures ranging from -30C to +30C. On the bright side, we don’t have natural disasters.
There are 3 general rules:
1. Don’t trust the weather forecast. Tartu (and Estonia) is affected by air flows from Scandinavia and the East. Due to this the weather can change all the time.
2. Weather can be very different in a 10 km radius and can change in half an hour.
3. Be prepared for everything. So have your swimsuit, rubber boots/raincoat, and winter jacket with you all times.
Generally September has temperatures between 10-20C, and it can be rainy, and it can also be dry… 🙂
Sightseeing
It is definitely worth to walk around the city centre. On the banks of the river Emajõgi you can find green areas, some interesting architecture and statues of historical figures.
In city centre there is a lot of interesting architecture. To name a few a medieval church St. John’s Church, University of Tartu main building with its pillars.
The Dome Hill is also a beautiful walk through a park. The colossal ruins of the cathedral, the towers can be visited for an awesome view of the whole city, and part of which houses University of Tartu Museum of History. The National Court, Old Anatomicum, Angel’s and Devil’s Bridge, numerous statues, the Kissing Hill, and more. Inside the Dome Hill is also the highest pub in the world – Püssirohukelder (Gunpowder Cellar).
When going outside of city centre you can for example visit the Tartu Singing Festival Grounds, which is a smaller version of the one found in Tallinn. It is possible to walk there along the river, and through “Souptown” (Supilinn), which is a cute neighbourhood featuring more traditional Estonian wooden architecture.
Across the river you can go to Raadi, which has the Estonian National Museum, the Soviet airfield and also Raadi Manor park.
Activities in Tartu can be checked on Tartu events website: https://kultuuriaken.tartu.ee/en
